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Process guide

The Pool Resurfacing Process, Step by Step

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How long does pool resurfacing take? Most jobs need about 5 to 14 days of active work, then a refill of roughly a day or two and about two weeks of daily brushing while the new finish settles in. Below is every step of the pool resurfacing process, from inspection to swim day, what each step involves, and what Phoenix heat changes.

  • Every step, in order, with typical timing
  • Startup steps from the National Plasterers Council
  • What Phoenix heat changes
  • Free quotes from licensed local pros
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How long does pool resurfacing take? The short answer

Swimply's 2026 guide puts most resurfacing jobs at about 5 to 14 days of active work. The pool is then refilled right away, and the first weeks after the fill are part of the job too.

Typical time for each step of a pool resurface
StepTypical timeSource
Drain and prepAbout 4 – 5 daysSwimply (national)
RepairsAbout 1 – 3 daysSwimply (national)
Apply the finishAbout 1 – 2 daysSwimply (national)
RefillAbout 24 – 48 hoursPoolResearch
Startup brushing and water balancingDaily for at least 7 days (NPC); 13 days of brushing for PebbleTecNPC; Pebble Technology
Extra-care periodFirst 28 days after the fillNPC; Pebble Technology
Back in the poolAbout 5 – 14 days after the fill, once water is balancedPoolResearch; Orenda; NPC

Published figures from the sources named. Weather, repairs, tile work and the contractor's schedule can stretch any step.

Illustrative pool resurfacing timeline An illustrative sequence over about six weeks: drain and prep about 4 to 5 days, repairs about 1 to 3 days, apply the finish about 1 to 2 days, refill about 24 to 48 hours, brushing and balancing for about two weeks, and an extra-care period covering the first 28 days after the fill. Swimming usually resumes once the water is balanced, about 5 to 14 days after the fill depending on the source. Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4 Week 5 Week 6 Drain and prep about 4–5 days Repairs about 1–3 days Apply the finish about 1–2 days Refill about 24–48 hours Brush and balance about 2 weeks Extra-care period first 28 days after fill Back in the pool about 5–14 days after the fill, once water is balanced
An illustrative six-week sequence built from the ranges in the table. Your contractor's schedule will differ.

A full remodel with new tile, coping, decking or equipment takes longer. An Arizona builder reports remodel timelines of about 3 to 6 weeks in winter and up to 5 to 9 weeks in summer. See pool remodeling for that bigger job.

How we researched this: the steps and timings on this page come from the National Plasterers Council's start-up procedure, Pebble Technology's start-up and warranty documents, trade coverage in Pool & Spa News and Aqua Magazine, and national and Arizona guides listed at the bottom. We don't add numbers we can't source. See how we research our guides.

What a pool is made of: the layers being replaced

It helps to know what the crew is working on. A concrete pool is a shell of gunite or shotcrete. On top of that sits the interior finish (plaster, quartz or pebble), which is the part that wears out and gets replaced. Waterline tile lines the top of the wall, coping caps the edge, and the deck surrounds it all.

Cross-section of a concrete pool's layers A cut-away of a pool edge. From the outside in: soil, the gunite or shotcrete shell, a thin bond coat used when the old surface stays, and the finish layer of plaster, quartz or pebble. Waterline tile sits at the top of the wall, coping caps the edge and the deck surrounds the pool. Deck Coping Waterline tile Finish layer Bond coat Gunite or shotcrete shell Soil caps the pool edge sits where the water line is plaster, quartz or pebble only if the old surface stays pool water
The layers of a typical concrete pool. A resurface replaces the finish layer, sometimes over a bond coat; tile and coping are optional add-ons.

Resurfacing doesn't rebuild the shell. If the shell itself is cracked or the pool leaks, that repair comes first. Fiberglass and vinyl pools are different and don't use these finishes.

Step 1: Inspection and quote

The contractor looks at the surface, the tile line and the equipment, and asks about leaks. One trick the trade uses is listening for hollow spots: Pool & Spa News describes dragging a chain or rod across the surface, where a hollow area sounds like tapping a bucket. Hollow, or delaminated, plaster has to come off.

This visit decides the scope: which finish, which color, how the old surface will be prepared, whether tile or coping is included and who handles the drain and startup. Get all of it in writing. Our pool resurfacing cost guide has a checklist for comparing what a quote includes.

Step 2: Drain the pool

Plaster, quartz and pebble finishes all need an empty, dry shell. City rules decide where the water goes and how fast. Most Valley cities want it on your own landscape or sent slowly to your home's sewer cleanout, never the street. Phoenix and several other cities recommend no more than about 12 gallons per minute to the cleanout, which Phoenix puts at about 720 gallons an hour, so emptying a pool takes many hours. Goodyear asks its city water and sewer customers to get a free drain authorization before they start.

Rules differ by city, so check our pool draining rules by city table before draining day. Don't let the pool sit empty longer than needed: PoolResearch warns that groundwater pressure can lift an empty shell, and the risk rises after heavy rain.

Step 3: Prep the surface: chip-out or bond coat?

Prep is where good and bad resurfacing jobs part ways, because a new finish is only as good as what it sticks to. There are two main approaches, and the condition of the old surface decides which one fits.

Chip-out vs. bond coat
Chip-outBond coat
What it isThe old finish is chiseled off, fully or in part, down to a sound surfaceA cement-based coat applied over the roughened old surface so the new finish can bond to it
When it fitsHollow or delaminated plaster; a surface that comes apart during power washing; some renovationsThe old surface is still sound; often preferred if the pool has already had one or two chip-outs
Watch out forChipping can remove some of the shell underneath; tools must be used carefully near tile and fittingsMust be a product made for pools, mixed as the maker says; the surface must be clean, with no grit or leftover acid

Summarized from Pool & Spa News trade coverage (2013 and 2016). Your contractor decides after inspecting your pool.

Crews typically cut a clean line just below the tile, tape over the tile to protect it and work carefully around fittings so the new finish meets them neatly. With a bond coat, the old surface is first roughened, by acid washing, sandblasting or water jetting, then cleaned so nothing loose is left behind. Pool & Spa News reports that crews let a bond coat sit at least a day but no more than about three before the finish goes on.

Contractors don't all agree on the cutoff. The same trade coverage notes that some crews do a full chip-out once more than 10 percent of the surface has come loose, while others wait until about 25 percent. Ask which method your contractor plans and why.

Step 4: Repairs, tile and coping

With the pool empty, cracks, damaged steps and fittings are repaired. Swimply's guide allows about 1 to 3 days for repairs, but some problems only show up once the old finish is off, so ask how surprise repairs are priced.

If you're replacing waterline tile or coping, this is when it happens, before the new finish goes on. An Arizona builder puts waterline tile at about $25 to $30 per linear foot. Tile and coping add days to the schedule, and you can read more on our pool tile and coping page.

Step 5: Apply the new finish

Most finishes go on in about 1 to 2 days, according to Swimply. Plaster and quartz are troweled smooth. Pebble finishes are applied, then washed so the tops of the stones show. A crew works fast, because cement-based finishes start setting as soon as they're mixed.

The finish you choose changes the look, feel and lifespan more than the schedule. Compare them in our plaster vs. pebble vs. quartz comparison, or read about pool replastering and pebble pool finishes.

Step 6: Fill the pool without stopping

The pool is filled right after the finish is applied, and the fill should not stop. The National Plasterers Council (NPC) says to fill to the middle of the skimmer without interruption, as quickly as possible, with a clean cloth on the hose end and the hose in the deepest part of the pool. Pebble Technology's instructions add the reason: stopping the water can leave a waterline mark in the finish. PoolResearch says a fill typically takes 24 to 48 hours.

  • Use one or more hoses and keep them running day and night until the water reaches the skimmer.
  • Pebble Technology says not to fill with softened water.
  • Keep people and pets out until the pool is full, as Pebble Technology advises.
  • Plan the refill month: some cities, such as Phoenix and Scottsdale, tie sewer charges to water use in certain months.

Step 7: Startup: brushing and balancing the water

Startup is the step homeowners most often handle themselves, and it matters. New cement-based finishes release fine dust, and the water chemistry swings while the surface settles. The NPC start-up procedure (revised March 2021) lays out a day-by-day plan. In plain terms:

  1. Days 1–3: start the pump and brush

    Start the filter as soon as the pool is full. The NPC says to run it nonstop for seven days, or until the dust is gone and the water is clear, and never less than 72 hours. Brush the whole surface at least twice a day. Balance alkalinity first, then pH, then calcium, in small steps. The NPC says not to add chlorine for the first 48 hours.

  2. Day 3: add chlorine

    Once the water is in range, the NPC plan brings chlorine to about 1.5 to 3 ppm.

  3. Days 4–7: keep brushing daily

    Keep brushing every day to help prevent scale. Calcium is raised slowly and stabilizer (cyanuric acid) is added over several days.

  4. After day 7: brush as needed

    Once the dust is gone, brushing can drop back to normal cleaning. Any leftover dust comes out with a brush-type vacuum.

  5. Through day 28: extra care

    The NPC says a new finish is most prone to staining, scaling and discoloration in the first 28 days. Skip wheeled cleaners until then, and wait 30 days before adding salt for a salt system.

Pebble Technology's own startup sheet is stricter on brushing: three times a day for the first 3 days, then twice a day for the next 10. It also says not to use heaters for 14 days or wheeled automatic cleaners for 28 days, and that the finish develops most of its durability in the first 28 days. Your contractor's written plan for your exact product wins over any general guide, including this one.

Ask who does startup. Some quotes include startup chemicals and visits, others leave it to you. National guides put startup chemicals at about $100 to $500.

Step 8: When you can swim again

Plan on about one to two weeks after the fill. PoolResearch says to wait at least five days for plaster and recommends two weeks, and Orenda, a pool chemical maker, says at least seven days. The NPC's rule is simpler: don't swim until the water is properly balanced and sanitized.

Heaters and salt systems come later. The NPC says not to run the heater until the water is balanced and the dust is gone, and Pebble Technology says 14 days for its finishes. Salt waits 30 days under the NPC plan.

What Phoenix heat changes

The steps are the same everywhere. In the Valley, heat changes when they happen and how carefully they're done.

Scheduling

An Arizona builder calls winter the best time to remodel a pool here, with fall a close second and July and August the hardest months. Rosie on the House advises against draining a pool in an Arizona summer unless it's necessary. Arizona's monsoon season runs June 15 to September 30, and storms can bring dust into a freshly filled pool or rain that raises groundwater around an empty shell.

Application and cure

Heat speeds up drying. The same Arizona builder warns that plaster applied above 90°F in low humidity can dry too fast and end up weaker. An NPC technical bulletin covered by Aqua Magazine says heat raises the risk of shrinkage cracking and uneven color, and suggests starting early in the morning, cooling the materials, using a set retardant per the maker's directions, and shading hoses and materials or tenting the pool. For bond coats, Pool & Spa News reports advice to finish the work before the air or the pool surface reaches 90°F.

Heat also affects startup. Water temperature is one of the inputs to the saturation index the NPC uses to balance new-pool water, so the right chemistry in a hot month isn't the same as in winter. That's one more reason to test often and follow the startup plan closely.

  • Ask what time of day the crew will apply the finish in warm months.
  • Ask how they'll keep materials and the shell cool, and whether they use a retardant.
  • Ask how long the pool will sit empty, and what happens if a storm hits.
  • Plan startup for a stretch when someone can brush daily.

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Who does the work

Pool Resurfacing Connect is a matching service, not a contractor. We share your request with up to 5 licensed, insured local companies that serve your area, and the company you hire sets the schedule, the price and the warranty. In Arizona, full interior resurfacing falls under licenses such as B-5 or B-6 swimming pool contractor or R-36 plastering, and you can check any license on the Registrar of Contractors website.

Find local drain rules and tips on our Phoenix-area locations page, such as pool resurfacing in Goodyear, or see how matching works.

Frequently asked questions

How long does pool resurfacing take from start to finish?

Expect about 5 to 14 days of active work for a typical resurface, per Swimply's 2026 guide, plus a refill of about 24 to 48 hours. Then comes startup: daily brushing for at least a week under the NPC plan, and extra care through the first 28 days. Most people swim again about one to two weeks after the fill.

Why can't the refill stop once it starts?

A fresh cement-based finish reacts to the water touching it. Pebble Technology says stopping the fill can leave a visible waterline mark in the finish, and the NPC says to fill without interruption, as fast as possible, with the hose in the deep end. Keep hoses running overnight until the water reaches the middle of the skimmer.

What's the difference between a chip-out and a bond coat?

A chip-out removes the old finish, fully or in part, so the new one goes onto a sound surface. A bond coat is a cement-based layer applied over a roughened, sound old surface so the new finish can grip it. Hollow or crumbling plaster needs to come off. The contractor chooses after inspecting your pool.

Can a pool be resurfaced in a Phoenix summer?

It can, but it's the hardest season. Arizona builders favor fall through early spring, and plaster applied above 90°F in dry air can dry too fast. Summer crews often start early in the morning, keep materials cool and may use a set retardant. Monsoon storms from June 15 to September 30 can also add dust and delays.

When can I run the heater or add salt after resurfacing?

Not right away. The NPC says to wait on the heater until the water is balanced and the plaster dust is gone, and Pebble Technology says 14 days for its finishes. For salt systems, the NPC says don't add salt within the first 30 days. Your contractor's written startup plan for your product is the final word.

Do I have to brush the pool myself after resurfacing?

Often, yes, unless your quote includes startup visits. The NPC calls for brushing at least twice a day at first and daily through day 7, and Pebble Technology asks for three times a day for 3 days, then twice a day for 10. Ask before you sign who handles brushing, testing and startup chemicals.

Who drains and refills the pool, me or the contractor?

Usually the contractor drains the pool as part of the job, following your city's rules, and starts the refill right after the finish goes on. Confirm it in writing, along with where the water will go. In Goodyear, for example, city water and sewer customers need a free drain authorization from the city first.

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